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It’s tree planting time

Natives, shelter and deciduous fruit trees can all go in, in June. Berries and vines too. Wait till spring to plant tender citrus and subtropicals. And as soon as leaves have fallen, prune deciduous fruit trees, berries and currants.

WORDS KATH IRVINE ILLUSTRATIONS JENNY HASLIMEIER

This is an edited extract from The Edible Backyard: A practical guide to growing organic fruit and vegetables all year round by Kath Irvine, Penguin, $50.

HOW TO PLANT NEW FRUIT TREES PREPARE THE HOLE

Dig a hole just a little larger than the rootball of the tree.

For clay soil, puncture the bottom of your hole by pushing your garden fork in as far as it will go. Mix the original soil 50:50 with compost.

For sandy soil, line the bottom of your hole with wet newspaper. Mix the original soil 50:50 with compost.

For compacted or poorly drained soil, it’s better for the tree to be in a mound above the soil. Dig a shallow hole. Mix the original soil into enough compost to create a mound above the soil line.

Lovely friable loam needs no compost in the hole.

Plant and back‹ll POTTED TREES

Trees in pots or planter bags need to soak in a bucket of water or diluted liquid feed, pre-planting. Soak them until bubbles no longer appear. Slit the bag open and check the roots are all heading out and downwards. Tease out, or trim any that are not.

BARE ROOTED TREES

Bare rooted trees need planting on the day they arrive. Create a hump of soil for them to rest on for a solid base. Sit the tree on the hump, making sure the graft is above the soil line and the roots are all heading downwards.

Trim any roots that are too long to fit the hole.

Position the tree so that it’s standing tall and straight and the strongest growth is facing south. New growth will head north. This ensures the tree has a balanced shape.

Backfill the hole, pushing the soil/ compost mix in. Hands are the best tool here. Be good and firm, not root breaking tough. The goal is no air gaps around the roots, and a tree that’s standing strong.

Give the tree a good tug to be sure it’s firmly in the hole.

Remove the flimsy bamboo stake and green tape that came with the potted trees. These are pot support, not part of your permanent planting plan. Left on, that tape will grow into the bark and interrupt the precious flow of nutrients.

For best root development and the end goal of an independent, resilient tree, trees need to move about a bit in the wind. This is especially important if it’s windy at yours. A bit of movement stimulates root development. More roots make for a stronger tree with the ability to source a wide range of nutrients and support, and give it the best shot at being drought proof, wind proof and handling a heavy crop.

Drive a robust stake into the ground about 20cm away from the trunk on the windward side. A ix the tree to the stake with a soft stocking tie – firmly, not rigidly.

Remove the stakes after a couple of years when the tree is firmly established. Trees on dwarf rootstocks need permanent stakes.

Garden

en-nz

2023-05-04T07:00:00.0000000Z

2023-05-04T07:00:00.0000000Z

https://good.pressreader.com/article/282359749033453

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