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Thailand on a Shoestring

Good editor Carolyn Enting takes a tour in Thailand on a tight budget.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY CAROLYN ENTING

A two-week tour of budget-friendly and beautiful Thailand taking in Bangkok, Koh Kood, Ayutthaya and Chiang Mai.

Budget-friendly, beautiful and the land of smiles, Thailand tops the list as a holiday destination that blends beach time with ancient history and water blessings.

Ancient Ayutthaya

A UNESCO World Heritage site, Ayutthaya is about an hour and a half by train from Bangkok. It was the second capital of Siam and once home to 400 glittering temples. Its golden era ended when the Burmese sacked the city in 1767. Today you can visit the remaining ruins which can be found within the heart of the city and reimagine its former splendour. Entry to most wats (temples) is $2.50 and some are free.

Top wats to visit:

Wat Mahathat – Best-known for the head of a Buddha statue entwined in the roots of a tree, Wat Mahathat was built in 1374 and is one of the most photographed and picturesque wats still standing.

Wat Ratchaburana – Built in 1424, it has been well restored. You can climb the tower (pictured left) and view some great examples of the original stucco.

Wat Lokayasutharam – It’s free to go and view this particularly beautiful and large (42m x 8m) reclining Buddha whose head rests on a lotus, also carved from stone. Devotees come here to make o erings and you can make one too by buying a lotus flower from a nearby vendor.

Wat Chaiwatthanaram – One of the most spectacular of all Ayutthaya temples, a good time to visit is just before sunset. This wat is also extremely popular with tourists who hire traditional Thai costumes from across the road and pose for pictures amongst the ruins.

Wat Phra Ram – Has the least well-preserved stucco so gets the least number of visitors which makes it lovely to visit as you can sit in peace amongst the ruins and imagine what it was like all those years ago.

Eating in Ayutthaya

The night market on Bang Ian Rd is popular with locals and visitors alike and you’ll be full before you’ve tried everything you want to eat and barely spent $5.

For a midday break between visiting temples, head to riverside restaurant Baan Kun Pra. A historic home built around 100 years ago at a time when Western ideas influenced Siamese society, it “marks a meeting point for history lovers” and you can dine outside with a view of the river.

alongside elephants in the mountains on foot and swim in waterfalls.

Go to the “beach” – For an authentic Thai experience, head to Huay Tueng Thao Lake which is a popular day out for Thai families for swimming and water play. Like us, you may well be the only tourists here. Grab one of the waterfront huts that ring the lake and order drinks and food from on-site waiters between swims. During peak season lifeguards patrol the area, too. $2.50 entry.

Doi Suthep – The 300+ stair climb to this sacred site is a must! Marvel at the golden chedi, temple, shrines and pagodas. Aspects of the wat draw from both Buddism and Hinduism, and the tiers represent the level of heavens that one must ascend in order to achieve Nirvana as well as the hierarchy associated with a monarchy. On a rare clear day, you’ll also get a great view of downtown Chiang Mai.

Have a Thai massage or three – There are plenty of excellent establishments in

Chiang Mai o ering traditional Thai massage or oil massage for feet, head and shoulders, or full body. Typically, one hour is 250 baht ($12.50). Supattra Blind Massage & Reflexology on Sri Poom Rd is excellent for traditional Thai massage.

Island escape

Trat (a four-hour bus ride from Bangkok) is the gateway to islands Koh Kood, Koh Mak and Koh Chang as well as many smaller islands with tropical white sand beaches.

Koh Kood is universally acknowledged as the most beautiful island in Thailand, with many palm-fringed swimming beaches to explore. Most beaches are accessed via resorts but you don’t need to be a guest at these resorts to access and enjoy these beautiful beaches.

TOP SPOTS ON KOH KOOD: Bang Bao Beach

– Access via Bang Bao Resort, this beautiful white sand beach has a pier and picturesque swing for the obligatory Instagram shot.

Tinkerbell Beach

– Public access from the road or Tinkerbell Resort, this beach has the most beautiful powder-soft white sand and picturesque twin palms.

Ao Noi Beach

– Great for swimming and snorkelling, this beautiful crescentshaped beach is framed with palm trees and aesthetically pleasing giant rocks. It also has a very pretty Asian-style pier. Access is via Noi Resort.

Ao Phrao Beach

– The most remote beach on Koh Kood with public access,

though you need to walk quite a distance to get to the beach from the sealed road. It’s wildly beautiful with lots of palm trees, and where coconuts (and sadly, plastic waste) wash up.

Klong Chao Waterfall

– A short walk through the jungle will bring you to the waterfall and a huge pool for swimming. Even if there hasn’t been much rain it is worth a visit as you can still swim in the pool.

Go for a paddle

– Kayak upriver and around the estuary where the river meets the sea. Paddle to the end of the river past mangrove trees with magnificent root systems and along the way you’re also likely to spot herons and monkeys. Finish up at the beach by pulling your kayak up onto the sand and go for a swim.

Sunset spots

– Neighbouring View Point Café or Sunset Bar are the best places to watch the sunset and people paddle boarding and kayaking around the estuary.

Fishing Village

– Dine on fresh seafood at stilt house Chonthicha Seafood restaurant at Ao Yai Pier. Crayfish, the most expensive thing on the menu, is $17.50. You’ll pass a scenic lookout of the fishing village on the way here, too.

Best cocktails

– Never Bar & Café at Peter Pan Resort serves fantastic cocktails. Located on the sandspit that straddles the beach and river, it can be accessed via the resort, by walking along the beach, or by kayak.

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2023-05-04T07:00:00.0000000Z

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